Mandarijnentoetje

For as far back as I can remember, oma had a package of maïzena, cornstarch, on her kitchen shelves. It was a bright yellow cardboard box, with one or two red spoons across the front, hiding out towards the back of the cupboard. I am pretty sure that box was the one and only one she ever bought, and it just resided in the cupboard for "just in case", as I don't ever remember her doing anything with it: she used to thicken her sauces and soups with flour, the traditional way. 

Nevertheless, cornstarch has a long history in the Dutch kitchen. Its arrival in the Netherlands dates back to the 19th century, around the same time that cornstarch became popular in other parts of Europe. The brand name Maizena was introduced in the United States in 1862 by the Duryea brothers, and less than a year later the product was already available on the Dutch market, and winning medals at the London and Hamburg expositions. What I found curious is that cornstarch was not only recommended as the "non plus ultra of all fine dishes" as the advertisement below indicates, but that cornstarch was also an "unsurpassable food for the weak and those with stomach ailments". How it was used for this category of sufferers I was not able to determine from my readings, but my guess is that it would make porridges that were easy on the stomach, and would potentially reduce any effects of gluten intolerance? If you know, let me know!

Nowadays in Dutch cuisine, maïzena is primarily used to thicken sauces, soups, and gravies, as not many have the knowledge (and the patience) to use flour instead. It can also be used in baking, often as a part of the mixture for cakes or pastries, contributing to a tender crumb, like in slagroomtaart, our typical birthday cake, and is essential in making several traditional desserts, such as vla (a creamy Dutch custard) or today's dessert, mandarijnenpudding.

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2 January1864

A big reason for its popularity is because of how quickly something comes together, like today's mandarijnenpudding. This is a safeguard against unexpected and last-minute guests, and you probably have all the necessary ingredients at hand. If you don't like mandarin oranges, you can use canned peaches or pears instead, or fresh raspberries or strawberries. If you prefer Nilla cookies over ladyfingers, use those - these desserts are easy to make your own and create new family favorites! Makes six medium, or four large servings.

Mandarijnenpudding

1 11 oz (315 grams) mandarin oranges, in light syrup
2 cups (475 ml) milk
1/2 cup (60 grams) cornstarch
3/4 cup (120 grams) sugar
Zest from 1 fresh mandarin orange, divided
12 ladyfingers

1 cup whipping cream

1 heaping Tablespoon powdered sugar

Drain the can of mandarin oranges, but keep the juice. Keep 6 pretty mandarin slices aside, and coarsely chop the rest. Add enough milk to the juice to make it to 3 cups (750 ml), then use a few tablespoons of the mixture to make a paste out of the cornstarch. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, pour in the rest of the milk, juice and the sugar. Bring the milk up to a low simmer, and stir the cornstarch paste into the pan. Keep stirring until the paste dissolves and the liquid thickens, about five minutes. Take off the stove, and fold the chopped mandarin slices in. Put it back on the stove, and stir until it's incorporated, then remove off the heat. Stir in half of the mandarin zest, then set the pan aside to cool. 

In the meantime, break up 6 of the ladyfingers into small, bitesize pieces and divide them over 6 glasses. When the pudding is cooled down enough (about 20 minutes) divide over six glasses or cups. Cover with plastic film to avoid skin forming, and put the glasses in the fridge until you are ready to use. 

Right before serving, whip the cream with the powdered sugar. Pipe the whipping cream, or use a spoon to make a big dollop on top, and decorate with a slice of mandarin orange, a ladyfinger, and the remaining zest. Serve cold.